THE COOK’S ATELIER | RECIPE

Mother and daughter American expats Marjorie Taylor and Kendall Smith Franchini always dreamed of living in France. With a lot of hard work and a sprinkling of fate, they realised this dream and founded The Cook’s Atelier, a celebrated French cooking school in the heart of Burgundy.

Combining their professional backgrounds in food and wine, they created a convivial international culinary destination. Their debut cookbook chronicles their life in a charming French village and their relationships with the region’s artisan food producers and winemakers. Featuring more than 100 market-inspired recipes, the book—like their school—teaches classic French techniques in a beautiful, approachable way. With more than 200 enchanting photographs, THE COOK’S ATELIER is a richly illustrated presentation of the family’s delicious world, and a practical primer for adopting elements of the French lifestyle at home, no matter where you live.

The following recipe is from The Cook’s Atelier: Recipes, Techniques and Stories from Our French Cooking School by Marjorie Taylor and Kendall Smith Franchini, photographs by Anson Smart. 


Lemon Soufflés

SERVES 6 TO 8

When we make soufflés, we can’t help but think of Julia Child. Inspired by her classic recipe, we begin with a sauce bouilli, a thickened mixture of milk, sugar, and flour, which makes them especially delicate. Light and airy with just a hint of lemon, they can be adapted using orange juice and zest or vanilla.

  • 7 tablespoons (90 g) granulated sugar
  • 1¼ cups (300 ml) whole milk
  • ¼ cup (30 g) unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 4 large egg yolks
  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for the moulds
  • 1 tablespoon lemon zest
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
  • 6 large egg whites
  • ¹⁄⁸ teaspoon fleur de sel
  • Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

1. Set a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C).

2. Butter the insides of eight individual 1-cup (240-ml) ramekins or one large 6-cup (1.4-L) soufflé mould. Using 2 tablespoons of the granulated sugar, sprinkle the inside of the mould(s), tapping to remove any excess. Set aside.

3. In a medium saucepan, whisk together the milk, ¼ cup (50 g) of the granulated sugar, and the flour until well-combined. Place over medium-high heat and cook, whisking continuously, until the mixture thickens and comes to a boil, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and let it cool for 2 to 3 minutes.

4. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, whisking until fully incorporated before adding the next yolk. While the mixture is still warm, add the butter, lemon zest, and lemon juice and whisk until fully combined.

5. In a large, very clean, preferably copper bowl, use a large balloon whisk to beat the egg whites with the remaining 1 tablespoon granulated sugar and the salt until firm peaks form. Stir a large spoonful of the whipped egg whites into the soufflé base to begin lightening it. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold in the remaining egg whites, leaving some white streaks in the mixture and working quickly to keep the base light and airy.

6. Pour the finished mixture into the prepared mould(s), filling them just below the top rim. Run your thumb along the inside edge of the moulds to remove any excess and ensure a proper lift. Bake until the tops of the soufflés are golden brown and lifted about 2 inches (5 cm) over the tops of the ramekins, 15 to 18 minutes (25 to 30 minutes for the soufflé mould). Do not be tempted to open the oven during baking or the soufflés will fall. Dust with confectioners’ sugar and serve immediately.


The Cook’s Atelier is out now – find out more here.
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The Short Stack Cookbook | Country Soufflé

Country Soufflé from The Short Stack Cookbook
Photograph © 2016 Noah Fecks

 

So you have eggs in your fridge, but you don’t want an omelette? How about trying your hand at making a souffle?

Country Soufflé

MAKES 4 T O 6 SERVINGS

 

French cookbooks and years of whipping egg whites would suggest that there’s nothing “country” about the soufflé. But in the mind of Libbie Summers (Vol. 12: Brown Sugar), this dish has all the flavors of the country breakfasts she grew up on: pork from her grandmother’s farm, eggs, butter and a dash of mustard. The only difference is the treatment of the eggs, which, when separated, whipped and reunited, become an extraordinarily light and visually arresting dish.

Our hope is that by serving soufflés for breakfast, the technique for making them will lose some of its haughtiness, and soufflés can be embraced with relaxation. At least, that’s what we’ll be telling ourselves as we pace back and forth in front of the oven waiting for ours to rise (old habits die hard).

 

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons (65 g) finely grated Parmesan cheese, divided

1/4 pound (55 g) pancetta, diced (about 3/4 cup/170 g)

1/2 cup (40 g) all-purpose flour

12/3 cups (405 ml) whole milk

1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard

Flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 large eggs, separated

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar


 

Place a rack in the centre of the oven and preheat the oven to 375ºF (190°C). Coat the inside of a 1½-quart (1.4-L) soufflé dish with 1 tablespoon of the butter and dust with 3 tablespoons of the Parmesan cheese.

Set aside.

Arrange the pancetta in a large cold skillet and set over medium heat. Cook, stirring often, until browned and crispy, 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the cooked pancetta to a paper towel–lined plate to drain. Return the skillet (with the rendered pancetta fat) to the stove and reduce the heat to medium-low.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter to the pan and stir into the pancetta fat. Whisk in the flour and cook until the roux is bubbling and lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Whisking constantly, add the milk in a steady stream. Bring the mixture to a boil and cook for 2 minutes longer, whisking constantly.

Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the mustard and the remaining ½ cup of Parmesan; season with 1 teaspoon of salt and ½ teaspoon of pepper. Whisk in the egg yolks one at a time, then whisk in the pancetta. Transfer to a large mixing bowl and set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, add the egg whites and a pinch of salt. Beat at medium speed until foamy. Turn off the mixer and add the cream of tartar. Increase the mixer speed to high and continue to beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form and the whites are smooth and shiny, 1 to 2 minutes.

Whisk about 1 cup (240 ml) of the egg whites into the yolk mixture, then gently fold in the remaining whites and stir until thoroughly combined. Pour into the prepared soufflé dish (the mixture will fill the dish) and bake until golden brown and puffed, about 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and serve immediately.


 

Recipe extracted fromThe Short Stack Cookbook by Nick Fauchald and Kaitlyn Goalen • Abrams Books • Out Now

The ethos behind Short Stack Editions is simple: Pair beloved ingredients with advice from trusted culinary experts to create inspired recipes home cooks can’t wait to use. For their first large-format cookbook, Short Stack calls on their acclaimed contributor list—IACP and James Beard award-winning cookbook authors, chefs, food writers and more—to create brand-new recipes destined to become favourites. Organised by ingredient, The Short Stack Cookbook presents kitchen staples as you have never seen them before and offers new ways to cook with everyday items. The collection retains the original Short Stack booklets’ handmade aesthetic and beloved style, offering a colourful, covetable, must-have gift for design-minded home cooks.

The short stack cookbook