strawberries (from about 4 cups/ 580 g strawberries)
3 tablespoons sugar, divided
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon, plus more for garnish
11/4 cups (155 g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
Pinch of fine sea salt
3 large eggs, separated
3/4 cup (180 ml) whole milk
3/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Unsalted butter or canola oil, for the pan
These puffy pancakes are a fixture on the brunch menu at Porsena, the Manhattan restaurant run by Sara Jenkins (Vol. 14: Prosciutto di Parma). Where normal pancake batter would get weighed down by ricotta cheese, here, beating the egg yolks and whites separately – as you would in a soufflé – makes the batter puff and rise as it cooks, yielding a very fluffy pancake with an extra-crisp exterior. Lemon – juiced into the batter and zested throughout – lightens these fluffy pancakes even further.
Line a fine-mesh strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a small bowl. Add the ricotta and let it drain for 15 minutes; set aside.
In a small bowl, toss the strawberries with 1 tablespoon of sugar and the lemon juice. Set aside.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, 1 tablespoon of sugar, the baking powder and salt.
In a separate medium bowl, combine the ricotta, egg yolks, milk, lemon zest and vanilla and whisk until thoroughly mixed. Whisk in the flour mixture until a smooth batter forms.
Using a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment or bowl and handheld mixer, beat the egg whites and the remaining 1 tablespoon of sugar at low speed until frothy, about 30 seconds. Increase the speed to medium high and beat the egg whites and sugar until stiff and glossy. Fold the beaten egg whites into the batter.
Heat a cast-iron griddleor large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add a spoonful of butter and heat until the foaming subsides. Working in batches, drop 1/3 cup (75 ml) of pancake batter onto the hot griddle and cook over medium heat until the tops of the pancakes are bubbling and slightly dry and their bottoms are golden brown, about 2 minutes. Flip the pancakes over and cook through until browned on the other side, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the pancakes to a platter and repeat with the remaining batter.
Spoon the strawberries and their juices over the top of the pancakes, zest some lemon over the top and serve.
and VOILÁ pancakes worthy of the day!
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Jenny Linford, author of The Chef’s Library knows a thing or two about cookbooks; having interviewed more than 70 renowned chefs around the world about their favourite cookbooks. She is here today to share the cookbooks she cherishes.
FIVE FAVOURITE COOKBOOKS by Jenny Linford
Having blithely asked famous chefs around the world to choose their favourite cookbook, now that I’ve been asked to choose my own five favourites I realise what a tricky task that was! I am sitting at my desk in my study in London, surrounded by bookshelves filled with cookbooks. Some of them are battered old paperbacks I’ve had for years, others recently published, handsome tomes by chefs and writers whom I admire and find interesting. Researching The Chef’s Library saw me adding considerably to my own library, as I encountered wonderful cookbooks new to me and succumbed to the urge to own them for myself. In short, I’m spoilt for choice! For my favourites, I’ve chosen books that are old friends. This is one of the charms of cookbooks – that they become our companions.
Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book
I mentally applauded when three of the great chefs featured in The Chef’s Library chose cookbooks by Jane Grigson. While pleased, though, I was not surprised. Their choice of her work is a tribute to enduring appeal of Grigson’s depth of knowledge and her special voice that speaks out from the pages of her books. My much-thumbed, Penguin paperback edition of Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book remains one of my favourites. Alphabetically arranged by vegetable, each chapter offers her characteristic blend of down-to-earth, practical culinary advice, evocative anecdotes, cultural references and clearly written recipes. An enduring delight.
The Classic Italian Cookbook Marcella Hazan
A great food writer’s ability to promote a deeper understanding of a cuisine outside its native shores is a very special thing. Through her bestselling cookbooks, Marcella Hazan was a champion of Italian cuisine, noted as an authority on the subject. Unsurprisingly, works by her were chosen by a number of chefs for The Chef’s Library. Having lived in Tuscany as a teenager, I have a deep affection for Italian food. Hazan’s intelligent, lucid writing – laying down the rules as she saw them with absolute conviction – makes for a wonderful read. The clearly written recipes, offering readers salient, pithy insights, are a pleasure to cook from.
Roast Chicken and Other Stories
Simon Hopkinson with Lindsey Bareham
As all the best cookbooks do, this makes me hungry whenever I look through its pages. Chocolate Pithiviers, Poached Cod with Lentils and Salsa Verde, Anchovy and Onion Tarts . . . I first came across this book during my early years as a food writer and was charmed by its character and sense of personality. The chapters are focussed on Hopkinson’s favourite foods, clustering together diverse recipes around ingredients as various as Tripe, Endive and Cream. What struck me when I first read I was the care with which the recipes were written. Hopkinson evokes the dish in its Platonic ideal form – specifying the desired texture and flavour he wants – then carefully takes the reader through the steps and work needed to achieve it. It is a book that makes me want to cook.
The Carved Angel Cookbook
There is a lovely, quiet conviction to this cookbook by British chef Joyce Molyneux. The recipes are delightfully eclectic, reflecting Molyneux’s open-minded interest in ingredients and how to cook them. Her practical thriftiness is evident in the recipes for dishes such as Goose Giblet Stew or the Apple Quince Tart, where the fruit trimmings are cooked and pureed in order to make a flavourful glaze. I was lucky enough to eat at Molyneux’s Carved Angel restaurant – enjoying a wonderful fish soup – and it was a relaxed, genuinely hospitable, thoroughly delicious experience that lives on in my memory. While the restaurant has now gone, her cookbook, in which her generous-minded approach to food comes through, remains to be read and used.
The Kitchen Diaries Nigel Slater
The intimacy of the diary form gives a special charm to this chronicle of a year by food writer Nigel Slater. Food shopping expeditions, the weather that day, the changing seasons, his mood, ingredients, whether at their peak or in need to using up – all these offer inspiration for Slater when it comes to creating recipes. It is a book in which I always spot something new when I look through it – a wry observation, an evocation of a summer Saturday morning, brief insights into his thinking about food. The recipes, studded through the book, combine with the elegant yet vivid prose to make a cookbook with a special quality to it.
What are your favourite cookbooks? Let us know on twitter @AbramsChronicle using #TheChefsLibrary.
My dearly departed Aunt Renee, who was quite a character, was famous for many things (from her fake Louis Vuitton bags to her stories about working in the hair salon in the basement of her Brooklyn apartment building), but her chicken soup looms large. When she left us, I put an obituary in the New York Times that read simply, “I will take care of the soup.” Here it is. It is unequivocally my favorite food in the world. The small victory here is not just carrying on traditions, but also learning how to make a good chicken soup; because in doing so, you learn to make chicken stock—the backbone (no pun intended) for so many things in the kitchen. You can put a whole chicken directly in the pot, but I like to separate it so that the white meat is easy to retrieve early on and, also, the whole pot is easier to stir during cooking.
One 4-lb [1.8-kg] chicken, cut into 8 pieces (2 breasts, 2 wings, 2 thighs, and 2 legs), backbone reserved
1 lb [455 g] chicken wings
2 large yellow onions, unpeeled, roughly chopped
4 celery stalks, roughly chopped
1 head garlic, halved horizontally so that the cloves are exposed
A handful of fresh Italian parsley sprigs, stems reserved and leaves finely chopped
1 Tbsp black peppercorns
8 carrots, peeled and cut into 2-in [5-cm] pieces
3 qt [2.8 L] water
2 parsnips, peeled and cut into 2-in [5-cm] pieces
A handful of roughly chopped fresh dill
In the largest pot you have, combine the chicken pieces, chicken wings, onions, celery, garlic, parsley stems, peppercorns, and 1 Tbsp salt. Add half of the carrots to the pot and cover with the water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook, skimming off and discarding any foam that rises to the top, until the chicken breasts are firm to the touch, about 25 minutes.
Use tongs to remove the chicken breasts from the pot and set them aside in a bowl. Continue simmering the stock, stirring it every so often and skimming any foam that rises to the top, until everything in the pot has given up all of its structural integrity (the vegetables should be totally soft and the chicken should look well past its prime—this is all great, it means these things have given all of their flavor to the water) and the stock is a rich golden color, about 3 hours.
While the stock is simmering, let the chicken breasts cool to room temperature, and then discard the skin, remove the meat from the bones (discard the bones), and shred the meat. Set the meat aside.
Ladle the stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pot (or, if you don’t have another large pot, ladle it into a bowl, clean the pot you started with, and return the stock to the pot). Discard the contents of the sieve (everything in it will have given all it can by this point).
Bring the stock back to a boil and season to taste with salt (be bold, it will need quite a bit!).
Add the remaining carrots and the parsnips, lower the heat, and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.
Add the reserved chicken breast meat to the soup and let it warm up for a minute or two. Ladle the soup into bowls, and top each with some of the chopped parsley and dill. Serve immediately.
Note: This soup is even better the next day. Do not discard the hardened fat that will have formed on top after the soup has been refrigerated. The rich pools of chicken fat on top of your soup are essential (at least in my book, but no hard feelings if you would rather discard the fat).
FOR ITALIAN WEDDING SOUP, leave out the parsnips and extra carrots and save the cooked chicken breasts for something else. Poach little meatballs in the soup and wilt in some chopped escarole right before serving. Each bowl should get lots of grated Parmesan cheese.
FOR THAI CHICKEN SOUP, add a crushed large piece of fresh ginger, a bunch of scallions, some cilantro stems, and a chopped chile to the broth. Adjust the water to 10 cups [2.4 L] and add a 13½-oz [398-ml] can of full-fat coconut milk. Leave out the parsnips and extra carrots and simply serve the broth with the shredded chicken. Top with sliced scallions and cilantro leaves.
My Colombian friend Luz Gerstein serves a grand meal of chicken soup known as AJIACO with assorted toppings. To serve your own, set your table with bowls of shredded chicken from the broth, fried onions, rounds of cooked corn on the cob, cubed boiled potatoes (regular and/or sweet potatoes), diced avocadoes, cilantro leaves, and lime wedges and then give every guest a large bowl of the hot chicken broth. Everyone can adorn their soup to their liking. Also put a small pitcher of cream on the table for anyone who wants to swirl a bit into their soup. This is a really fun meal, and everything can be done ahead of time.
FOR CHICKEN AND VEGETABLE SOUP, simply add whatever kinds of vegetables you like to the strained broth (with or without the parsnips and extra carrots). Add the shredded white meat or save it for something else, like chicken salad sandwiches. Some of my favorite combinations include diced beets and shredded red cabbage (stunning!), finely diced leeks and roughly chopped potatoes, and shredded Savoy cabbage with chopped tomatoes (serve with grated Parmesan).
This recipe is extracted from Small Victories by Julia Turshen.
“I can’t wait to cook my way through this amazing new book,” Ina Garten writes in the foreword to this cookbook of more than 400 recipes and variations from Julia Turshen, writer, go-to recipe developer, co-author for best-selling cook- books such as Gwyneth Paltrow’s It’s All Good, Mario Batali’s Spain…on the Road Again, and Dana Cowin’s Mastering My Mistakes in the Kitchen.
The process of truly great home cooking is demystified via more than a hundred lessons called out as “small victories” in the funny, encouraging headnotes; these are lessons learned by Julia through a lifetime of cooking thousands of meals. This beautifully curated, deeply personal collection of what Chef April Bloomfield calls “simple, achievable recipes” emphasises bold-flavoured, honest food for breakfast, lunch, dinner and dessert. More than 160 mouth-watering photographs from acclaimed photographers Gentl + Hyers provide beautiful instruction and inspiration, and a gingham spine elevates this entertaining and essential kitchen resource into a covetable gift for both beginners and accomplished home cooks.
Celebrate National Cookie Day with a Christmasy treat from the Cookie Advent Cookbook.
4 Tbsp [55 g] unsalted butter
1 cup [100 g] firmly packed light brown sugar
1⁄4 cup [60 ml] light corn syrup
1⁄2 tsp grated fresh ginger
1 cup [140 g] sifted all-purpose flour
1⁄2 tsp brandy
Preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Lightly grease a cookie sheet. Have ready a wooden spoon with a long, round handle for shaping the cookies.
In a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat, combine the butter, brown sugar, corn syrup, and ginger, stirring occasionally, until the butter and sugar have melted and all the ingredients are combined, about 2 minutes.
Remove from the heat and stir in the flour and brandy. The batter will be medium-thick.
Spoon a heaping 1 tsp of the batter onto the prepared cookie sheet. Using the back of a spoon, spread the batter into a circle about 3 inches [7.5 cm] in diameter. Repeat, spacing the cookies at least 2 inches [5 cm] apart. Make only four cookies at a time, because they must be hot when they are rolled.
Bake in the center of the oven just until the cookies begin to firm up, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from the oven. Working quickly and using a spatula, lift a cookie from the cookie sheet and wrap it in a spiral around the handle of the wooden spoon. Let cool for 20 seconds, then slide the cookie off the spoon handle onto a wire rack to cool completely. (If the cookies harden too much to remove them from the cookie sheet and shape them, return the cookie sheet to the oven for about 1 minute. They will soften again.) Repeat with the remaining batter, regreasing the cookie sheet as necessary.
Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.
Makes about 20 cookies
This recipe is an extract from Cookie Advent Cookbook: With 24 festive recipes by Barbara Grunes and Virginia Van Vynckt
Inspired by the Cookie Advent held every December at Chronicle Books, here is a unique twist on the traditional Advent calendar. Starting on December 1 through Christmas Eve, the cover of the book invites readers to peek under an ornament flap to discover the cookie of the day—then turn the pages to find the appropriate recipe. Beginner and experienced bakers alike will enjoy these simple recipes for beautifully decorated homemade cookies counting down to December 25. With its mix of familiar and global Christmas treats and entirely new ones, this festive calendar and cookbook will create new cookie-baking traditions, bringing tidings of great family and community joy.
Grab that apron and make yourself a true British classic – Venison and Beef Pie.
Venison and Beef Pie
The best wild-shot venison comes from Scotland, so it’s not surprising that Scottish-born chefs, like Jeremy Lee of Quo Vadis in London, like to use the meat in their savory pies, as in this recipe. American cooks don’t have access to domestically shot wild venison unless they hunt it themselves. The alternatives are meat from Asian deer species raised and slaughtered by Broken Arrow Ranch, a huge game preserve in Texas, or that imported from New Zealand and sometimes Scotland, usually frozen but occasionally fresh in season.
3 tablespoons sunflower or vegetable oil
1¾ pounds (800 g) venison, cut into large pieces
⅔ pound (300 g) beef brisket, cut into large chunks
2 red onions, sliced
1 large carrot, halved lengthwise and cut into 10 to 12 pieces
12 ounces (340 g) puff pastry, store-bought (thawed, if frozen) or homemade
1 large egg, beaten
Heat half the oil in a Dutch oven or large skillet with a cover over medium-high heat. Working in batches, brown the venison and the brisket, turning the pieces frequently with tongs until they are well browned on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes. Set the meat aside as it is done.
Add the rest of the oil to the pot, reduce the heat to medium, and add the onions and carrot. Cook for 5 minutes, until they begin to soften. Add the bacon and garlic and cook for 2 to 3 minutes more. Season generously with salt and pepper, then add the bay leaf and stir in the red currant jelly and the wine.
Bring the liquid to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low, return the meat to the pot, cover, and simmer for about 45 minutes, or until the meat is tender. Set aside to cool.
Preheat the oven to 400ºF (200ºC).
Spoon the meat into four individual baking dishes or one large one.
If using individual dishes, divide the puff pastry into four equal parts and roll out each part to form a round just large enough to fit over the top of a baking dish. If using one large baking dish, roll out the puff pastry to form a round just large enough to fit over its top. Gently lay to pastry over the top of each baking dish. Decorate the pastry with any trimmings, if you like. Make a small hole in the middle of the pastry to allow steam to escape, then brush the beaten egg over the top.
Bake the pies or pie for 20 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 350ºF (175ºC) and bake for 30 minutes more, or until the pastry has risen and turned golden brown.
This recipe was extracted from The British Table by Colman Andrews, published by Abrams | Out now.
The British Table: A New Look at the Traditional Cooking of England, Scotland, and Walescelebrates the best of British cuisine old and new. Drawing on a vast number of sources both historical and modern, the book includes more than 125 recipes, from traditional regional specialties to modern gastropub reinventions of rustic fare. Dishes like chicken pie, mackerel with sorrel sauce and a pastry shop full of simple, irresistible desserts have found their way onto modern British menus—delicious reminders of the depth and breadth of Britain’s culinary heritage. The book blends these tradition-based reinventions, by some of the finest chefs in England, Scotland and Wales, with forgotten dishes of the past worthy of rediscovery.
Adapted from a recipe I found in an issue of Martha Stewart Living years ago, these sweet and buttery biscuits are always a hit with the extended family at Thanksgiving but are also a staple at my house year-round. I serve them with cranberry butter, which is just 1/4 cup (60 ml) cranberry sauce blended in a food processor with 1/4 cup (55 g) softened butter. I almost always double the recipe and freeze half the biscuit dough, cut out and arranged on parchment-lined trays then sealed in a freezer bag. On a night when I need something to go with a pot of soup, I can pull them out of the freezer and bake as few or as many as I need.
Makes 18 small biscuits
1 pound (455 g) sweet potatoes or yams
(1 large potato is usually sufficient)
21/2 cups (315 g) all-purpose flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 cup (1 stick/115 g) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces
1/4 cup (60 ml) whole milk or cream
Preheat the oven to 400ºF (205°C).
Prick the sweet potatoes with a fork and place them directly on a rack in the oven. Bake until soft to the touch, about 1 hour. Allow to cool completely. Slice the potatoes in half, scoop the flesh from the skin, and pass it through a food mill or potato ricer (or use a potato masher—you want a nice even mash, not a gummy puree). You should have about 2 scant cups (scant 480 ml) of mash. Stir together the flour, baking powder, brown sugar, salt, and cayenne. Cut in the butter with a pastry cutter (or use your fingers) until the mixture resembles a coarse meal. Mix the milk with the sweet potato mash and add it to the flour and butter mixture. Mix the dough, just to incorporate (I use my hands). If the dough is really sticky, add a touch more flour.
Turn out the dough onto a floured surface and knead a few times. Pat or roll it out into a ½-inch (12-mm) thick round. Cut out biscuits with a biscuit cutter or glass. I find that smaller biscuits cook more evenly, so I keep them around 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter (for Thanksgiving, I share my love with a heart-shaped cutter). Place the biscuits on a parchment-lined cookie sheet and refrigerate for 10 minutes. Bake until the biscuits rise and are slightly brown, 10 to 12 minutes (bake longer for larger or frozen biscuits). Serve warm.
This recipe was extracted from A Year Between Friends: 3191 Miles Apart by Maria Vettese and Stephanie Barnes, published by Abrams| Out Now.
Like the bread puddings on pages 107 and 170, this is one of many ways I like to use up leftover bread. You might think they would be heavy, but in fact they are lighter than most fritters. The bread disappears into these fluffy orbs that are deeply flavored with two intense salty cheeses. They are fantastic, but in all honesty what really makes this dish is the tomato jam, which your friends will want to eat with a spoon. It is great on anything—such as biscuits or served with bread and cheese.
For the fritters
1 cup (240 ml) heavy cream
3 large eggs, beaten
1/2 cup (120 ml) milk
8 cups (280 g) 1-inch (2.5-cm) cubes ciabatta or French bread
1 1/2 cups (165 g) grated Manchego cheese
1/2 cup (55 g) grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1/4 cup (13 g) chopped fresh parsley leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, or 1/8 teaspoon dried thyme
2 cups (160 g) panko
Canola or safflower oil, for frying
Freshly ground black pepper
Chopped mint leaves, for garnish
For the tomato jam
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 can (28 ounces/794 g) whole canned plum tomatoes, drained
1/4 cup (55 g) tightly packed light brown sugar
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, or 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Make the batter the day before you plan to serve the fritters. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the cream, eggs, and milk. Add the bread cubes, both cheeses, and the herbs and stir to mix thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
Make the tomato jam: In a skillet over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until they fall apart and are slightly caramelized, about 12 minutes. Add the brown sugar, vinegar, tomato paste, and thyme. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is glossy and jam-like, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside, or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.
Make the fritters: Shape the dough into 1½-inch (4-cm) balls, roll them in the panko, and set them on a plate or baking sheet. Heat 2 inches (5 cm) of frying oil in a deep, heavy-bottomed pot to 365°F (185°C) or until a breadcrumb sizzles when you drop it in. Place a wire rack on another baking sheet. Fry the fritters in batches, monitoring the temperature of the oil and making sure not to crowd the pan. Cook each batch until it is dark golden brown and crispy, 2 to 3 minutes, then remove with a slotted spoon to the wire rack.
Sprinkle pepper and chopped mint over the fritters and serve them while they are still hot, accompanied by warmed or room temperature tomato jam.
For more than 10 years, The Good Fork has been one of Brooklyn’s favourite restaurants. It’s a neighbourhood spot that offers a rare treat in the crowded, slick New York food scene: a restaurant that feels like home. Chef Sohui Kim and her husband live down the block, blurring the lines between their kitchen at home and the kitchen at the restaurant.
The Good Fork Cookbook is packed with Sohui’s recipes for flavourful globally inspired cuisine that a home cook can make any night of the week. Her influences and techniques range from French and Italian to American and Korean, but every dish is comforting, unfussy: Pork Dumplings; Korean Style Steak and Eggs with Kimchee Rice and Fried Eggs; Buttermilk Fried Chicken and Waffles; Miso Butterscotch Ice Cream; and more. The Good Fork Cookbookshares the recipes that made The Good Fork Brooklyn’s favourite mum-and-pop shop.
So you have eggs in your fridge, but you don’t want an omelette? How about trying your hand at making a souffle?
MAKES 4 T O 6 SERVINGS
French cookbooks and years of whipping egg whites would suggest that there’s nothing “country” about the soufflé. But in the mind of Libbie Summers (Vol. 12: Brown Sugar), this dish has all the flavors of the country breakfasts she grew up on: pork from her grandmother’s farm, eggs, butter and a dash of mustard. The only difference is the treatment of the eggs, which, when separated, whipped and reunited, become an extraordinarily light and visually arresting dish.
Our hope is that by serving soufflés for breakfast, the technique for making them will lose some of its haughtiness, and soufflés can be embraced with relaxation. At least, that’s what we’ll be telling ourselves as we pace back and forth in front of the oven waiting for ours to rise (old habits die hard).
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons (65 g) finely grated Parmesan cheese, divided
Place a rack in the centre of the oven and preheat the oven to 375ºF (190°C). Coat the inside of a 1½-quart (1.4-L) soufflé dish with 1 tablespoon of the butter and dust with 3 tablespoons of the Parmesan cheese.
Arrange the pancetta in a large cold skillet and set over medium heat. Cook, stirring often, until browned and crispy, 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the cooked pancetta to a paper towel–lined plate to drain. Return the skillet (with the rendered pancetta fat) to the stove and reduce the heat to medium-low.
Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter to the pan and stir into the pancetta fat. Whisk in the flour and cook until the roux is bubbling and lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Whisking constantly, add the milk in a steady stream. Bring the mixture to a boil and cook for 2 minutes longer, whisking constantly.
Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the mustard and the remaining ½ cup of Parmesan; season with 1 teaspoon of salt and ½ teaspoon of pepper. Whisk in the egg yolks one at a time, then whisk in the pancetta. Transfer to a large mixing bowl and set aside.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, add the egg whites and a pinch of salt. Beat at medium speed until foamy. Turn off the mixer and add the cream of tartar. Increase the mixer speed to high and continue to beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form and the whites are smooth and shiny, 1 to 2 minutes.
Whisk about 1 cup (240 ml) of the egg whites into the yolk mixture, then gently fold in the remaining whites and stir until thoroughly combined. Pour into the prepared soufflé dish (the mixture will fill the dish) and bake until golden brown and puffed, about 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and serve immediately.
The ethos behind Short Stack Editions is simple: Pair beloved ingredients with advice from trusted culinary experts to create inspired recipes home cooks can’t wait to use. For their first large-format cookbook, Short Stack calls on their acclaimed contributor list—IACP and James Beard award-winning cookbook authors, chefs, food writers and more—to create brand-new recipes destined to become favourites. Organised by ingredient, The Short Stack Cookbook presents kitchen staples as you have never seen them before and offers new ways to cook with everyday items. The collection retains the original Short Stack booklets’ handmade aesthetic and beloved style, offering a colourful, covetable, must-have gift for design-minded home cooks.
Autumn is upon us and though that means packing away your summer wardrobe, it also means cosy jumpers and warm hearty food. Take this Roasted Autumn-Vegetable Soup from Soup Swap: Comforting Recipes to Make and Share by Kathy Gunstfor example. It is like a hug in a bowl. Give it a go yourself and say welcome back to squash, parsnips and your slippers.
ROASTED FALL-VEGETABLE SOUP
MAKES 10 TO 12 TASTING PORTIONS OR 6 TO 8 FULL SERVINGS
When you roast winter root vegetables along with shallots, leeks, and garlic, they caramelize and become sweet. Although this soup takes about an hour from start to finish, the resulting flavor is startlingly complex. It’s important to cut the vegetables about the same size to ensure even cooking.
3 medium leeks
3 medium parsnips, peeled and cut crosswise into 1/2-in [12-mm] pieces
3 medium carrots, peeled and cut crosswise into 1/2-in [12-mm] pieces
One 2-lb [910-g] butternut squash or any type of winter squash, peeled and cut into 1/2-in [12-mm] cubes
2 large or 3 medium celery stalks, cut crosswise into 1/2-in [12-mm] pieces
1 medium celery root, peeled and cut into 1/2-in [12-mm] cubes
5 cups [1.2 L] Vegetable Stock or canned low-sodium broth
3/4 cup [180 ml] dry white wine
Parsley Pesto for serving
Double-Cheese Croutes for serving
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400°F [200°C].
Trim off the dark green sections from the leeks and save for making vegetable stock. Halve the pale green and white sections lengthwise. Rinse under cold running water, pat dry, and cut crosswise into ½-in [12-mm] pieces.
In one large or two medium very shallow roasting pan(s) or rimmed baking sheet(s), combine the leeks, parsnips, carrots, squash, celery, celery root, shallots, garlic, and thyme. Drizzle with the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to evenly coat the vegetables. You don’t want to have vegetables on top of one another; you want them in a single layer.
Roast the vegetables for 20 minutes. Turn the oven temperature to 450°F [230°C] and roast for another 10 minutes, or until the vegetables are a nice golden brown, almost crispy on the edges, and almost soft when you gently test them with a fork or small, sharp knife. You don’t want them soft and mushy; they will continue cooking in the soup.
Meanwhile, in a large stockpot over high heat, bring the vegetable stock to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low and gently simmer.
Remove the vegetables from the oven, add the wine, and de-glaze the pan, using a spatula to loosen any bits clinging to the bottom. Pour everything from the baking sheet into the stock. Turn the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, for 20 to 30 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if needed.
Ladle the soup into mugs or bowls and serve piping hot, topped with the pesto and croutes.
TO GO: Pack the pesto and croutes separately.
Soup Swap: Comforting Recipes to Make and Share by Kathy Gunst
There’s no better way to cultivate community, foster friendship, or simply nourish family than over heartwarming bowls of homemade soup. And here, soup lovers will find 60 terrific recipes, featuring such classics as creamy Tomato Soup with Grilled-Cheese Croutons plus international favourites like Thai Red Curry-Chicken Noodle Soup. Each recipe has suggested sides to make it a meal and tips for easy transporting, which makes them just right to bring to a soup swap where everyone can sample the offerings and then take home a variety of leftovers to enjoy all week. Whether taken to the party or savoured at home, this trusted collection of soups, stews and chowders is sure to satisfy all year long.